The importance of Hotel California
I may have mentioned to some of you that Hotel California was my theme song in China. This was because Chinese people seem to LOVE the song. I was always hearing it wherever I went. Sometimes I'd be sitting in a cafe and one song would finish and in the pause I would think, 'I bet it's Hotel California next' and often it would be...
I think what really sealed it for me though was when I was staying in Shanghai, the place I'd decided to go to for 2 days and ended up staying for 2 weeks. They were always playing the same mixtape in the hotel bar and I would start laughing every time The Eagles came round again. Although obviously, they meant you could check out but never leave because you were addicted to heroin, not because you were too hungover from drinking Chinese beer with Norwegian backpackers and didn't get up 'til noon.
And THEN I went to Yunnan province and the reception guy in the hotel I stayed in in Dali was trying to learn the guitar. Half a verse of Hotel California, with mangled chords, and misheard lyrics, over and over again for three days.
I've been looking for a a new hotel here in Kathmandu, as the one I was in was a bit gloomy. And, I discovered on Thursday night, right next to a bar with an incredibly loud covers band playing. I was looking through my guidebook trying to decide where to move to. One of the options was called Hotel California, and it sounded nice. I was fondly thinking of staying there, as a homage to my China trip. And then the covers band started on a high-decibel version of those distinctive opening chords and my soppy notion was revealed for the rose-tinted nonsense that it was.
So, today, after much traipsing round to see rooms, general indecisiveness on my part and eventual coin tossing, I moved to The Tibet Peace Guest House, where I expect to be for some time. It's a bit more expensive than lots of the hotels, but this is basically because he showed me a perfectly nice and very cheap room, I asked if they'd got anything with a bit more light and he took me to a turret. My turret now.
OK, it's not exactly a turret, but it's beautiful. I'm on the top floor, with loads of light and loads of space and a view, a private roof terrace, a double bed and even a wardrobe. I can put stuff away and feel like I'm staying! And sit reading or writing on the terrace looking at the Himalayas and getting a tan without offending local sensibilities with my undress. It's gorg. And the hotel's got a beautiful, chilled garden to hang out in and quite a few travellers staying (the last hotel had no communal area which was getting annoying).
This is all quite handy as it looks like no-one's going anywhere for a while. They've had another bandh today - with most places shut. And apparently there's a curfew for most of the day tomorrow. No buses are running anywhere, and apparently, there's so many buses and trucks stranded in the roads around the city that even when things can start going again buses aren't going to be able to get down the roads until it's all sorted out.
But again, it's really nothing like all that makes it sound. There's still loads of tourists just walking around like nothing's happening. Sturdy German families with three blond-haired kids. Elderly American women with walking sticks. Large rafts of Israelis bartering away. And even at the height of bandhs some shops and restaurants are open.
And there's still this surprising openness - if you ask the Nepalese staff about the situation they are very open about saying they want democracy and they hope all this trouble will be over soon because it's bad for tourism and their businesses. It was Nepali New Year's day yesterday and Nepalese people would say 'Happy New Year' to me and when i said it back they would tell me how this is not a good New Year and no-one is celebrating like normal.
I was sitting today in the fragrant garden of my new hotel and the hotel's owner (A French expat married to a Nepalese woman) was talking about the political situation and it just seemed so incongruous. Even though occasionally we could here chanting (there have been more demonstrations today) it might as well have been a million miles away.
Other things from the last couple of days, 'cos I need to go soon:-
British Embassy chat
I got chatting last night with someone who works at the British Embassy. They said 'it's all gone a bit weird the last few days', but they reckon it's totally safe, 'We have to do those travel advisories like that for really stupid people'.
Weird deja vu
I found the hotel I stayed in 15 years ago here by vaguely recognising places and going to where I thought it would be. It's called the Mini Om Guest House, which I remembered as soon as I saw it. It looks a lot more dingy and scabbit and the alley it's on looks much narrower. I decided not to stay there again.
California airheads
Pleased as I am to have more people to hang out with now, etc, I briefly wondered if I'd made a terrible mistake in choosing this new hotel. The first woman I spoke to said the words, 'healing' and 'finding myself' within the first minute of our conversation. As I started to panic she even added the phrase, 'I guess here was where I was meant to be right now'. Fortunately she went away quickly. And the other people seemed to have brains that worked.
Posting comments
Can anyone who's good at techy stuff tell me why people still don't seem to be able to post comments? I thought I'd changed the right setting but I have reports of still not being able to post without being a member of blogger. Also - is this hidden from google, etc like apieceofus, if not, what do I have to do to make it so?

8 Comments:
comment posty testy. sounds like you've ended up where you needed to be right now. seriously though, it sounds absolutely lovely, civil unrest aside. you can't really be surprised to be encountering weirdo american hippies staying somewhere like the tibet peace guest house. surely they are pulled to a name like that like moths to a flame.
re comment posting - if this works then it should be fine to non-blogger members. definitely seems to be giving me the option, anyway.
apieceofus will probably have bits & pieces in the source code to exclude it from search engines. not sure if you can do that with blogger, check the faq woman!
PS - i was guessing that apieceofus was a .org.uk address, there seem to be a few links to that - are you aware that goes to some kind of gambling site?
No, apieceofus is a blogger blog for my scicomm geek mates.
And what do you mean check the faq? What sort of person do you think I am?:-)
Well I thought that was the case, but if you look it up on google, you get all these links saying things like 'aPieceOfUs - Before they were famous: writings from the next crop of science journalists. A resource for those who like to see things from a different angle now and then: science without the lumpy bits.' And you can see why I automatically associated that with you ;)
I think you're the kind of person who reads instructions and knows exactly how things work before blindly going ahead and - oh no wait a minute. No, no I don't think that at all.
Indeed - the old apieceofus.co.uk was the website we did as part of our course, all filled up with our marvellous and talented outporings. Now we ARE famous and monumentally successful in every way we don't need it any more, so we just have a blog instead.
Hope that's cleared things up!
Namaste!
good to hear you are out there alive and at large! So what is the Kathmandu soundtrack these days? I recall Thamel in a haze with "ohm mane padme hum" playing in _all_ shops! I was wondering if the shop assistants still notice there is music playing or if amnesty international is taking any actions to stop the torture...
Enjoy Cafe Pumpernickel!
Bloody hell, Axel, how are you doing?
Thamel is probably exactly as you remember it, except for the strikes and curfews, etc. But most of the time Thamel kind of ignores them anyway.
I haven't got a theme song here yet, it takes time to notice that you've heard one particular annoying song (that you kind of like as well), more than any other...
And BTW, once I've spent a couple of months here I'm thinking of heading back to China, so if you're planning to revisit the People's Republic, this would be a good time!
gday soph
y'alright.sounds like fun? over there.but any excuse to sit around all day talking politics will be right up your street.well good to hear your tales anyhow and takes me back to indian dreams.getting back hasnt been so bad,mostly gto hammered for the first few days then went off up to the west coast of scotland for whiskey and sunsets over the islands.now back in town and packing all my shit as my folks are moving house.so whats your plans now,or still waiting until roads clear and you can get out of town.tell us all your adventures and climb a mountain for me
love al
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