Well, it’s a bit strange being back in Kathmandu now. When we got to Pokhara we were going, ‘Woah, cars! Weird…’ And Kathmandu has become a hectic, pulsating Metropolis. It’s nice to be back and know where things are and have people to say hello to. But I can’t wait to get out again. It’s too hot and humid!

The last few days of trekking were fantastic. We walked for two days through this valley of winds. A huge, open valley (with a braided river, fact fans), down which the wind whistled all day long from mid-morning (co-incidentally the time at which we set off down the valley on the first day, when we didn’t know about the wind). At first it was quite refreshing, but it kept getting stronger until we were really battling to walk forwards against it. And you couldn’t look where you were going because of all the sand flying into your face. We definitely felt like people on a quest from Lord of The Rings. We were knackered by the end of the day.

After passing through, ‘Nepal’s Apple Capital’ (where they had run out of apples. And cider. And Apple Brandy.) we ended up in Tatopani (‘hot water’) where they had hot springs and the best food on the trek – including pasta with a sauce that wasn’t ketchup, what heaven! So we had a rest day. Then next day had to climb 1750m to a pass at about 3,000. Obviously this height was nothing to us hardened adventurers, but it’s 1650m higher than Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, which is 1344m, I checked. I know. Anal researcher. This also means we climbed 400m more than climbing Ben Nevis from sea level, by tea time. We’re nails.

It was a bit of a bugger though. Especially as it started to rain monsoon at us on the last stretch of climb. It started so quick and heavily that we were soaked instantly, so no point unpacking our waterproofs. We just looked at each other, and set off uphill. It certainly speeded us up on that last 400ms. Again you couldn’t look up to see were you were going, for rain in your eyes. And after a bit you could feel water just running down you, everything soaked. But at least it washed the sweat off a bit. We got to the top, walked into a lodge and I demonstrated my mastery of the Nepali language by saying, ‘It’s raining!’, while dripping water all over the floor. Fortunately the guy thought this was very funny.

And it turned out to be the best lodge in the world ever. They had a huge fire and the man brought up free coffee to our room to help us warm up and insisted we brought all our stuff down and hang it round the fire. And then he made us the best Dal Bhat I’ve ever had. It’s amazing how happy dry clothes, food and hot chocolate with rum in it can make you.

So, couple more days, pretty villages, many waterfalls that seemed to be entering some ‘lovely waterfall’ competition. Then Pokhara (Nepal’s second city) for a bit of a rest from all this terrible hardship and roughing it we’ve been doing, seven hour bus trip to Kathmandu and home. Sort of.

Everything seems much the same here. Very quiet, hardly any tourists. Apparently much quieter than usual for the time of year. There have been talks between the Maoists and the government. Even direct talks between the Prime Minister and Prachanda, the Maoist leader. But I haven’t properly caught up yet.

Hope you’re all well. Everyone has gone world cup crazy here. Nepali men all want to stop and talk to Chris about football. (While staring at me of course. Western women seem to be fascinating to people, especially in out of the way places. I veer between thinking I must have something stuck on my head and thinking I must be more ravishing than I thought.) And in Thamel, all the bars have big signs up about what matches they are showing, when, so it’s like the Costa del Sol.

Send me all your news, much love to all,

Soph

PS, Have decided that Kathamandu is too hectic and hot and we are leaving to go trekking again. Tomorrow. Will be back in a week or so. Take care all.